Tips straight from the road

Ranger Dave took us through the hidden cave pool at Reach Falls — ask for him at the gate, and go before 10am.

Pelican Bar boat run from Parottee: J$3,000 return if you arrange directly on the beach. Order fish on arrival.

Devon House lawn at 6pm on a Sunday, soursop cone, no plans. Cheapest perfect evening in Kingston.

Blue Lagoon raft at 4pm hits different — light turns the water electric and the crowds are gone.

Street dance on Lower Church Street doesn't warm up until 1am. Eat first, the food carts sell out early.

Call Frenchman's an hour ahead so the steam fish is ready when you land. Bring cash.